top of page
Habitat Summary:​
  • Cool side 80

  • Warm side 90

  • Basking spot of 105-110 (115 for babies)

  • UVB bulb (T5 long is best)

  • Basking and UVB bulbs overlap

  • Hides and items to climb

  • Min size for adult: 4ft x 2ft x 2ft

Life Span Summary:
  • 10-15 years

Diet Summary:
  • Variety is key!

  • Greens, vegetables, fruit, insects

  • Calcium powder

We really like these food pyramids because it gives an idea of what your bearded dragon's typical week should look like. It's important to note that this pyramid reflects the needs of an adult. Babies need more bugs than greens until about 6 months of age. They should also be fed several times a day. Adults can be fed just 1-2x a day.

The worst thing we can do is get in the habit of only offering one or two different things to eat. It's an easy habit to fall into. But here are some great suggestions to offer your bearded dragon and help keep them healthy with a varied diet.

Offering a variety of insects is also important!  We discourage feeding your bearded dragon bugs you find outback in your yard due to the possibility of carrying parasites or maybe even just hopping over from your neighbor's yard who just sprayed pesticides! Also, hornworms that have eaten any part of a tomato plant are now toxic to beardies. Crazy, we know.  We should also add that crickets are sort of like feeding McDonalds. They don't carry a lot of nutritional value... but can be fun to hunt!

Housing is important!

Bearded dragons like to climb, dig, and sleep in weird positions. Be sure to provide items for them to do such things. 

There is conflicting information and a wide variety of opinions in the reptile community regarding hammocks, substrate, multiple level enclosures.... but one thing that is NOT questionable is the need for correct lighting! If you have the wrong lighting, things can go very bad, very quickly...... or it can take months for your beardie to show signs. Either way, lighting is something you MUST get right! DO NOT TAKE SHORT CUTS. You'll want a long UVB light that covers about 2/3 of the enclosure. Also in the 2/3, you'll want to place their basking light. Even if you have the enclosure by a window, the glass filters out the crucial rays they need!  All lights should be turned off at night, and all colored lights should be avoided always. 

**Credit for some of these posters are given to Facebook group "Bearded Dragon". They have TONS more available as well if you'd like to check them out.


MBD - Metabolic Bone Disease

MD - Muscular Dystrophy

Muscular dystrophy (MD) has not been studied much at all in reptiles. But it is my belief that the below symptoms are in fact, MD. Many vets will misdiagnose this as MBD, but a simple x-ray to show bone density will dispute MBD as a cause. Some vets believe these symptoms are caused by the Adenovirus (ADV). Although I don't doubt there may be some sort of link, I do not believe the virus is the CAUSE of these symptoms. I believe it is caused by a defect in the dystrophin gene, that then disrupts the dystrophin protein production.

In my search of studies, knowledge, and information on this deadly disease and how to ease / improve the lives of our MD bearded dragons... I discovered enough supporting facts about CBD's effects on muscles and the endocannabinoid system (ECS) to believe it may help bearded dragons with MD. The results in the video below speak for themselves. (DUE TO HIGH DEMAND: I have also added a video showing the breakdown on figuring out the correct dosage)

If you have a beardie that you believe may have MD, and your vet has ran x-rays, any blood work, and a PCR test looking for the ADV... and you would like to share those findings with us to add to our research, please email them to along with a picture or video of your bearded dragon. Every bit of information we are able to collect will help with correctly identifying this crippling disease, as well as educate vet, breeders, and owners across the world! Thank you!!

Purchase HERE

bottom of page